Simone Rocha’s spring/summer presentation was one of the most eagerly anticipated shows of the season and her vibrant collection certainly provided the breath of fresh air that fashion editors were hoping for. White dominated, used in crisp white shirts, tailored trousers and slim-fit shift dresses, and, when perforated, it lent a sporty youthful feel to the range. Her signature masculine tailoring was used to great effect in oversized jackets and well-cut trousers, each finished off with a coloured pair of stacked brogues.
Colour, when it was seen, made an immediate impact. Buttery brown leathers were worn head to toe, while black leather biker gilets muddied the innocent tone with a touch of rebellion and sharp bursts of neon yellow popped in floral mini dresses and suits. There was an experimental air that should be expected from such an emerging talent; Rocha played with volume, adding capes to sleek androgynous looks and plumping up full skirts to contrast with closely fitting bandeau tops, while also adding appliqué florals and masculine tailoring. Despite the mixed aesthetic, this was a debut collection that certainly did not disappoint.