The third season of London Collections: Men kicked off in full force, with the West End taken over by designer shows and presentations from some of the most exciting new designers and established home-grown talent, including Astrid Andersen, Lee Roach and Agi & Sam.
11am: Hong Kong designer Kay Kwok’s first show at London Collections: Men, sponsored by GQ China, showcased the designer’s futuristic prints, unconventional cuts and love of leather. Highlights included short suits cut from super-fine neoprene covered in space-age warp-wave prints, buttonless magnetised outwear and a full set of super-soft leather hand luggage, all beautifully matched with the designer’s shoe collaboration with fellow London College of Fashion graduate Youngwon Kim.
12pm: Post punk met country and western at the Topman Design show, as silky white Nashville-inspired shirts with floral detail and piping were matched with double pleated high-waisted trousers and metallic brogues. The floral theme continued on similarly silky bomber jackets and vests. Fine patterned knitwear, retro sunglasses and metallic belts completed the look.
1pm: Bright white sportswear took centre stage during Astrid Andersen’s much anticipated show. Making use of mesh, lace and velour, the collection reinvented traditional feminine forms, including cut-outs, micro-shorts and body stockings, all modelled on some of the most muscular models seen on the catwalk so far.
2pm: Acid bright sheens from standout satins made the Jonathan Saunders presentation pop, with hexagonal-print shirts layered with colourful knits. Narrow tailored trousers completed the Saunders aesthetic to provide a grown-up look, offset with colour-block military-inspired coats and two-tone rubber shoes.
3pm: The Fashion East and Topman collaboration show packed out the Old Sorting Office show space, with hundreds of fashion lovers keen to see the collections from Bobby Abley, Alan Taylor and Craig Green. Abley kicked off the show in style with crowns and teddy-bear prints dominating each look; mesh trousers and cartoon prints also made a playful statement. Taylor’s collection featured a multitude of short suits and unconventional upside-down tailoring, but it was Green who stole the show with his all-over tie-dye and face sculptures.
4pm: Clean lines and structural simplicity were the main elements of Roach’s show, with thigh-length coats belted at the waist, jackets and a variety of industrial-inspired ties, belts and belts offsetting the largely monochrome palette. However it was the debut of Roach’s new deconstructed desert camouflage print that made the biggest impression.
Gieves & Hawkes
6pm: Inspired by traditional tailoring, the Gieves & Hawkes collection included elements of military and sportswear styling. The traditional mackintosh was reinterpreted in feather-light waterproof silk twill, while tangerine pea coats, double-breasted bright blue mohair blazers and raw silk ivory dinner jackets rounded out the collection to provide a full holiday-ready wardrobe.
Agi & Sam
7pm: Newcomer Agi & Sam wowed show goers with the use of colour, tailoring and cut. Layered shirting matched with crop-sleeved jacket and coats in vibrant oranges, cornflower blue and cerulean alongside super-detailed digital prints drew gasps of admiration from the crowd, before the show finished with bright whites, textured with raised raindrop-shaped dots.