This past week Florence once again played host to the largest menswear trade show in the world, attracting some of the biggest brands, the most influential fashion buyers and the world’s fashion press. Take a look inside one of the most important events on the fashion calendar, with our top five highlights from Pitti Uomo AW18
For four days in January and four days in June Florence is transformed by Pitti Uomo, the biannual menswear trade show, and the historic Tuscan city becomes the epicentre of all things related to menswear. With more than 36,000 attendees, including designers, buyers and press, flocking to Florence’s impressive Fortezza da Basso, Pitti Uomo gives one of the clearest insights into the key menswear trends for the upcoming season.
This month saw the 93rd Pitti Uomo present autumn/winter 2018/19 collections from some of the world’s most exciting brands. From established wardrobe staples to new and emerging brands of the moment, we’ve selected our five highlights from the most important menswear event of the season.
This Turkish brand’s architectural streetwear was the talk of the town this season. For the autumn/winter 2018/19 collection, designer and founder Bünyamin Aydin was inspired by ancient architectural marvels, including Mesoamerican pyramids in Mexico and Central America and their Egyptian counterparts at Giza. With graphic prints, T-shirts shown with glistening padded outwear, and glitter track suits, the collection took ancient civilizations to the street.
One of the newest brands of the moment, M1992 had a buzzy debut collection of playful shapes, textures and prints and was a hit among the most fashion-forward attendees. The label was founded by Milanese DJ and all-round ‘It’ boy Dorian Stefano Tarantini, and its first fashion show was a collaboration between the brand, Pitti Uomo and the National Chamber of Italian Fashion. It attracted some of biggest names in Italian and international fashion. Bridging the gap between high fashion and streetwear, rhinestone festooned T-shirts and hoodies were seen alongside green acid wash demin tailoring and the season’s leading trends of shearling and padded outerwear.
International Woolmark Prize
This season saw the International Woolmark Prize return to Florence during Pitti Uomo. First held in 1953, the prize celebrates the brands and designers who use Australian merino wool, and it has become one of the most prestigious awards for rising fashion stars. This year’s nominees included labels from across the globe, including Swedish brand L’Homme Rouge and Dutch designer David Laport. British designer Matthew Miller won the award for menswear; Indian, Pakistani and Middle Eastern brand Bodice won for womenswear; and American label DYNE won the new innovation award, in recognition of its commitment to the environment.
America’s oldest men’s apparel brand, Brooks Brothers, celebrated its 200th anniversary at Pitti Uomo this month. Staging its first-ever fashion show, in the historic Florentine landmark of Palazzo Vecchio, the brand showcased its elegant and timeless collections of men’s tailoring ‒ having been the first brand in the world to offer ready-to-wear suits and having been the inventor of the button-down shirt. The centuries-old brand didn’t show any signs of its age, however, with the collection featuring elements of some key trends of the season, including shearling coats and patchwork knitwear.
With one of the largest and most immersive presentations at Pitti Uomo, renowned German footwear brand Birkenstock showcased its new collections for men, women and children. These reflected the label’s continuing emphasis on product innovation, debuting technical hiking boots and new sports-inspired Rotterdam sandals with Velcro straps and flexible plastic midsoles. The biggest talking point of the event was the brand’s workshop installation, with craftsmen on hand to demonstrate the skill and the attention to detail that goes into creating each pair of the brand’s famous sandals.