Discover the top trends to appear in the Milan Fashion Week Men’s autumn/winter 2019 collections, including the return of animal print, grunge and oversized puffer jackets
Brands and labels adopted grunge and punk themes at Milan Fashion Week Men’s this season, with many shows featuring key colours of black, white and red. At Versace, the first half of the collection offered bondage-themed T-shirts in the three colourways, while biker boots, chain belts and black PVC trench coats completed the look. Punky pin badges and DIY patches were another huge nod to the fashion of this 1990s era. At Marni, the trend was channelled through baggy, worn trousers paired with oversized plaid anoraks, bucket hats and puffer gilets, while No 21 presented a chic, more sophisticated take. With its focus on tailoring, the brand explored the trend through patent-leather trousers and matching trench coats, subtly accessorised with chain, choker-style necklaces.
Italy is famous for men’s tailoring and Milan Fashion Week Men’s is known for highlighting the relationship between the city and its sartorial skill. This season, designers looked for new ways of showcasing the look. At Ermenegildo Zegna, the collection showed a liberal interpretation of tailoring, with pieces walking the line between athleisure and sophisticated tailoring. Bomber jackets, for example, were made in super-thick wool, which wouldn’t look out of place as part of a uniform. At Versace, creative director Donatella Versace explored the blurred concept of masculinity through tailoring, with blazers worn with lace negligees, plumed tailoring and leopard-print coats. Prada featured tailoring with slim, slightly cropped trousers and panelled coats, some worn with wide leather belts.
Clashing colours and psychedelic prints were an emerging trend in Milan this season. Designers played around with overlapping and mixing clashing prints. At Marni, traditional knitwear got a modern makeover with animal prints and boldly coloured striped jumpers were paired with clashing trousers for a contemporary look. At Neil Barrett, the eponymous designer played around with his British roots, offering a collection inspired by contemporary punk. As a result, his collection was dominated by clashing graphics on black coats. Creative director Miuccia Prada offered both men and women’s looks that were built around bold colour and print clashes. This season, the key print at Prada was Frankenstein, which featured on both skirts and shirts.
Animal prints made a striking return for autumn/winter 2019, with leopard, tiger and cheetah prints featured on everything from Argyle knits to coats, suits and trousers across the men’s collections. At Philip Plein, models sported leopard-print blazers and matching trousers, while metallic brocade snakeskin and zebra-print trousers were paired with oversized puffer jackets. Marni also made a case for the trend with plenty of looks containing mix-and-match options, this time in bright bold colours on outwear and the brand’s striking knitwear. Meanwhile, MSGM went for leopard-print coats with Versace taking it one step further to spray paint models’ hair in the print.
Oversized puffer coats
Oversized was a key word in general across fashion for the Milan Men’s autumn/winter 2019 collections, with voluminous proportions taking over everything from jeans to trench coats. Trench coats were a reoccurring outwear trend along with long-line puffer jackets, which, underlining the prospect of cold winter weather, were the outwear of choice. At Marni, oversized puffer jackets and puffer gilets featured alongside leather trench coats, adding to the brand’s grunge theme. Philip Plein also protected its models against the elements with a huge selection of oversized puffer coats, from oil-slicked black styles to camo prints and neon greens.