Emilio Pucci’s Peter Dundas led attendees of his spring/summer show on a journey through the Orient. Inspired by a recent trip to Vietnam, his collection took elements from every Eastern culture, from the kimono jackets of Japan to a Chinese mandarin collar and Arabic harem trousers. These traditional shapes and an extravagant dragon motif embroidered in gold across many pieces were modernised by the use of a fresh colour palette; a succession of white outfits opened the show, followed by military khaki, black and a burst of royal blue. The addition of sporty bomber jackets, worn over sleek maxi dresses and as dresses themselves, added another dimension and prevented the theme feeling forced, while the use of sheer panels, especially effective in harem pants, restrained the overt opulence and gave the collection a lightness that was in marked contrast to Dundas’s usual gothic tone.
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