The typical Pucci print was pushed aside this season, as creative director Peter Dundas looked to his own wardrobe for inspiration and created a collection that was much simpler and more masculine in tone than in previous years.
Echoing the dark hues seen elsewhere in Milan, the colour palette was of cool, watery tones alongside basic black with even the embellishments in neutral, subtle shades. Dundas’ love of the female form was evident in his body-conscious dresses with slashed sheer panels and crocodile-printed patent leather. Tailoring was also key; even the most feminine of dresses was teamed with a smart blazer or oversized fur coat, while structured cropped trousers and loose open shirts marked a real departure for the brand.
One particularly strong ensemble teamed a khaki shirt and trousers with a rich plum full-length coat. Prints, when they did appear, were soothing, featuring complementary winter tones of blue, green and brown in more fluid watercolour patterns than the usual tightly woven paisley prints. With even evening dresses taking on an ethereal and neutral feel with subtle gemstone embellishments, this was Pucci providing a masterclass in grown-up glamour.