Best in show
For brilliant fashion spectacles that are more like theatre than catwalk shows, Milan is the place to be. Known for glamour and extravagance, the Dolce & Gabbana show once again did not disappoint. Lace dresses, bustiers and baroque details were again key themes but, as we have come to expect from the label, Dolce & Gabbana impressed with a show-stopping final look, which saw all the models take to the runway together in hot-red lace numbers.
A cut above
Jil Sander is known for its minimalistic aesthetic, clean lines and brilliantly sharp cuts and this season, with Sander herself back at the helm of the house, the new collection was a Milan Fashion Week highlight. All the signature style notes of Sander were there, such as oversized coats, cropped-leg trousers and mid-length skirts, yet new elements were also used to create a collection that felt as fresh as a crisp Milan morning.
One to watch
Trussardi’s menswear has always been highly regarded, but this season it looks as if the womenswear collection is now coming into its own, too. The latest collection from Umit Benan was a monochrome masterpiece; masculine shapes – for which Benan is renowned – were balanced with feminine cuts and leopard-print pieces to create a collection that could fit perfectly into any modern woman’s wardrobe.
While fashion as a whole seems to be moving away from strict seasonal trends, there are still always certain cuts, motifs and materials that are picked up by several designers for the new season. Here are the top four we spotted in Milan
Fur – The show notes at Fendi said it all: fur is Fendi, and fur is also back in a big way for next season. With fur you can go as subtle or as statement as you want. The super-long fur scarves at Marni would be the perfect piece to bring some luxury to any outfit, whereas as one of Roberto Cavalli’s extravagant multi-coloured fur coats is sure to make heads turn as soon as you enter the room.
Sexy skirt splits – Pleated skirts and kilts with seductive splits were all over the Milanese catwalk. In varying lengths, the side split is the refreshing new way to do alluring, allowing you to show some skin without being too revealing. Seen on the catwalks of Prada, Fendi and Bottega Veneta, to name but a few, we’re sure this is a trend we’ll be seeing again in Paris very soon.
Ladylike – The Mad Men effect has cast its spell over the fashion world for some time, and now designers are taking the repressed-receptionist look to new heights. Office-appropriate dresses that fall just below the knee were given plunging necklines at Gucci, while at Prada they were made modern with gingham and metallic materials. Taking inspiration from the 1920s, Emporio Armani made masculine looks more feminine with soft materials and a light colour palette.
Rebel girl – Whenever there is conservatism in fashion there is also always anarchy. In an antidote to the reserved ladylike look, Versace, Salvatore Ferragamo and Missoni all showed collections that embraced the bad girl. Leather, netting, 1980s and 90s street-style references, a dark colour palette and a dose of ‘vunk’ – Donatella Versace’s version of punk – made the girls from the wrong side of the track look so right.