Milan Fashion Week AW19 trend report

80s party

The extravagant, jovial spirit of the 1980s was found throughout Milan this season, from soundtracks to clothing. Young brands such as Attico and Giuseppe di Morabito championed the most playful of party ensembles, in glimmering lamé bedazzled with crystals. Moschino decided to turn its catwalk into a giant 1980s-themed gameshow, completed with prizes and applause signs, while other brands took a more understated approach, with high necks, oversized shoulders and plenty of ruffles.

Moschino, Alberta Ferretti, Attico

Craftwork

Textures and knitwear were huge news for autumn/winter 2019/20, with many brands taking a decidedly crafty approach. Jil Sander’s mottled, oversized knit dresses gave the trend a cosy yet luxury feel, while Roberto Cavalli’s embellished minis proved that craftwork prints can also be incredibly glamourous. Missoni, ever the champion of knitwear with added interest, provided the middle ground, offering arty knits with a flash of metallic thread – easy to dress up or down.

Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli, Missoni

Grunge

As soon as the Versace show opened with the Nirvana song Smells Like Teen Spirit, we knew the grunge trend was back for autumn/winter 2019/20. Donatella Versace’s ode to the brand’s iconic safety pin dress was the starting point and a collection of tartan and slip-dress-clad models followed. Marni also showed a collection filled with chains and plaid worn over silk dresses, while Agnona’s dainty floral dresses under oversized checked blazers truly cemented the trend.

Versace, Agnona, Marni

Heritage fabrics

Many designers in Milan cited classic British style as the influence for their collections. Heritage British fabrics such as tartan, tweed, herringbone and Prince of Wales check were seen at brands such as Etro, Salvatore Ferragamo and Ermanno Scervino. While many chose to work this into classic overcoats and capes, Prada’s strapless wool dresses proved that this trend is truly versatile for the season ahead.

Salvatore Ferragamo, Prada, Etro

Lace

Usually reserved for the spring/summer collections, lace was an unexpected addition to many autumn/winter 2019/20 catwalks. Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini made the case for teaming the prettiest of white lace dresses with statement black boots – perhaps as a nod to the grunge trend. Ermanno Scervino’s pieces were also teamed with tough black leather to give the lace an edge and Prada topped classic cotton shirts with lace overdresses for an irreverent twist. However you wear lace for autumn/winter 2019/20, it’s certain to be in style.

Prada, Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini, Ermanno Scervino

Leather

As home to some of the most exceptional leather factories in the world, Italy offers exquisite leather pieces, from handbags to shoes. This season, leather firmly made its mark on the ready-to-wear market, with buttery-soft leather trench coats at Fendi and Bottega Veneta, as well as full leather ensembles such as Salvatore Ferragamo’s green leather suit and the perfect neutral leather shirt from Tod’s.

Tod's, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo

Monochrome

Whichever colour you pick to wear for autumn/winter 2019/20, be sure to wear it top to toe – that was the message from many of Milan’s biggest brands this season. Max Mara, ever the champion of a tonal look, opened its show with three striking looks of yellow, turquoise and blue, rather that its classic camel. Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo also showcased the trend, favouring striking primary colours and leaving no skin on show for maximum effect.

Tod's, Gucci, Max Mara

Monogramming

The logomania trend doesn’t seem to be going anywhere for autumn/winter 2019/20 and brands in Milan seem to be getting ever-more creative with their monogrammed fabrics. Fendi, an early adopter of the trend, has removed itself from the iconic Fendi monogram and created a new cursive-style F, as seen across bodysuits and on coats. Gucci offered several different varieties of monogram, from a bold black and white G to a minute design on a camel suit, while German brand Aigner reworked its classic A logo across coats, bags and more.

Gucci, Aigner, Fendi

Neutral

Undoubtedly the biggest trend to emerge from spring/summer 2019 and spotted on every influencer and editor in Milan, neutral dressing is certainly here to stay for autumn/winter 2019/20. While the spring look was all about sharp tailoring and light layers, the winter version is dedicated to a varied colour palette and plenty of texture. Every shade, from deep brown to stark white, was combined, with soft wool and patent leather sitting side by side at brands including Fendi, Max Mara and Agnona.

Max Mara, Agnona, Fendi

Pastels

While pastel shades can often veer into the territory of girly and frothy, this autumn/winter 2019/20 these ice-cream shades are decidedly modern, masculine and ultimately cool. Jil Sander worked oversized dresses and boxy jackets in peach, mint and lemon into a collection defined by neutrals. Tod’s extended its enviable range of leather to include a pale-pink dress, which proved to be a highlight of the collection and, in a brilliantly unpredictable collection from Bottega Veneta, a minimal pale-yellow coat cemented the fact that pastels are here to stay for the new season.

Tod's, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander

Sparkle

If the Milan catwalks covered one thing this season it was a standout party dress. Sequins, sparkle and glitter were abundant, and spotted on everything from red-carpet gowns to accessories. Bottega Veneta provided a mature take on the trend with its layered bedazzled looks, while Versace’s noughties-inspired dresses would be perfect for the most glamorous of events. For all-out disco-ball style, Alberta Ferretti’s closing looks were certainly the star of the show.

Versace, Alberta Ferretti, Bottega Veneta

Two-tone

Elegant, understated and unexpected, the two-tone dresses seen on Milan’s catwalks provided a chic and grown-up way to dress for autumn/winter 2019/20. With pieces somewhat reminiscent of Phoebe Philo-era Celine, these mostly monochrome designs feature stylish draping and flattering lengths while the contrasting tones add an extra layer of interest. Bottega Veneta, Marni and Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini were true supporters of the trend, showing dresses that are certain to be investment pieces for seasons to come.

Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini, Bottega Veneta, Marni