Dorothee Schumacher seemed to be getting ready for a summer of unpredictable weather with her spring/summer 2013 collection which showed at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin this morning, as it barely featured a look without a coat, jacket or blazer. Layering was key as princess-length, collarless coats were worn over cigarette pants, cropped jackets swung around draped tops and sharp blazers added structure to sheer fabrics.
This collection spoke of a less overtly diva-like woman than the one who has been seen in recent Schumacher collections, where the designer moved away from her signature blush colours and feminine style. Fabrics were draped and swung softly while deep khaki greens, teals and burnt gold were kept muted. However, Schumacher’s return to her softer side didn’t mean sacrificing boldness. Graphic prints punctuated the collection and were frequently clashed as one design was layered over another.
Schumacher, who works out of Mannheim in south-west Germany, started her label in 1989 with just three shirt designs and now her collections are sold in department stores including Berlin’s Quartier 206 and Istanbul’s Beymen as well as over 40 other locations across Europe, Asia and America.