Top Paris Fashion Week SS19 highlights

Hedi Slimane’s Celine debut

Hedi Slimane is known for his total black looks and that’s exactly what he offered at Celine. The first collection for the brand under his creative direction, following the departure of Phoebe Philo, was one of the most talked-about moments in Paris this season. When a new designer takes the helm of such a big house, there are always major expectations. The reality was that this collection showcased Slimane’s signature style of mostly black with tailoring and some over-the-top sequins. This show will be memorable and controversial, even if the clothes weren’t.

Art time at Balenciaga

An immersive video installation was the backdrop for the Balenciaga show. The LED tunnel was created in collaboration with Canadian artist and filmmaker Jon Rafman, and titled The Ride Never Ends. The blue and red tunnel screens contrasted against the structured clothing, architectural bags and boxy shoulders – a mix of fashion and art at its best.

Models walking on water at Saint Laurent

With the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower and models walking through a pool of water on the catwalk, the Saint Laurent show is a definite highlight this season. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello’s collection was a mix of tailoring, velvet, big bows and West Coast glamour, under the Parisian moonlight.

Hermès at the Longchamp racecourse

A house with its heritage rooted in horse racing, Hermès couldn’t have chosen a better location for its show than the Longchamp racecourse. Dior was also at the same location but clearly the two shows were very different. The Hermès catwalk was set against a large mirrored backdrop, with the reflections of blue sky the perfect complement to the minimalist, modern mix of sailor-inspired and utility looks.

L’Oréal catwalk on the Seine

Closing off the river Seine on a Sunday for a fashion show is definitely a rare occurrence, and the river was the setting for L’Oréal’s first Le Défilé fashion and beauty show, with the long catwalk positioned in front of the jardin des Tuileries and the Musée D’Orsay. The second event by L’Oréal included key people involved with the brand, from models to spokespeople from around the world, wearing Parisian-inspired autumn/winter 2018/19 clothing from 13 brands including Off-White, Isabel Marant and Jacquemus. The theme of the day was all about empowerment and diversity.

The burning tower at Rick Owens

In the courtyard of Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens set a metallic tower on fire to illustrate a concept of nihilism. Many regarded this as Owens burning his Californian youth of hiking boots and cut-off jeans in Paris, and the show delivered a powerful message, with models dressed mainly (as expected) from head to toe in black.

The remaking of Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garçons founder Rei Kawakubo is an artist within fashion. This season she found herself at a creative crossroads, wanting to change the direction of her aesthetic after a decade. Models appeared with pregnancy bumps in different forms – perhaps in a social commentary of what it’s like to be a woman?

Sports-star-studded catwalk at Off-White

As well as the models one would typically expect on the catwalk, such as Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber, founder Virgil Abloh also employed sports stars. With the second collection created in collaboration with Nike, Abloh focused on track and field, and included Olympic stars such as high-jumper Vashti Cunningham and sprinter Dina Asher-Smith. This was the ultimate athleisure combination for sure.

Gender fluidity at Givenchy

Gender fluidity is one of the most important fashion subjects at the moment and Clare Waight Keller set the tone on the Givenchy catwalk. Taking inspiration from Annemarie Schwarzenbach, a Swiss writer in the 1930s who dressed androgynously, the artistic director put male and female models in the same clothing. The only thing missing was the dresses, of course, but femininity and confidence prevailed.

Gucci goes French

The luxury Italian brand embraced the French capital as it headed to Paris Fashion Week, although the collection itself was anything but French. The mix of every micro trend imaginable has become characteristic of creative director Alessandro Michele’s style and this season was no different. A tracksuit with Dolly Parton’s face, grande 1980s dresses, all that topped off with a cameo appearance by Jane Birkin, who sang her 1983 song Baby Alone in Babylone. Let’s not forget the show’s location at the Théâtre Le Palace, a hedonistic nightclub famous in the 1980s.

The light over Dior

A very theatrical show and a very feminine collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior was accompanied by dancers under Israeli choreographer Sharon Eyal. Dancewear as normal wear isn’t a new concept but Chiuri gave it new life with her characteristic whimsical details, fluid lines and hand-embroidery.

Chanel brings the sea to Paris

As seen over many previous seasons, Chanel certainly knows how to put on a show and the final day of Paris Fashion Week was no exception. This time around, Karl Lagerfeld somehow managed to deliver an actual coastline, complete with sand, waves and lifeguards, to the delight and amazement of all.