Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli managed to remain true to Valentino’s feminine side while incorporating the latest trends for dark and masculine utilitarianism as they showed their latest collection to a crowd which included singer Alicia Keys, actress Chen Rui and model Natalia Vodianova.
The dark romance of the collection was evident from the start. Black leather capes, A-line skirts and culottes, fitted all-in-ones and dresses gathered low at the waist defined the lines of the collection – sensual and strong with a touch of Valentino’s feminine softness in thick cable frogging on princess coats and ribbons of cross-stitch on seams.
Chiuri and Piccioli were influenced by North Africa and Russia this season and this was clear throughout the collection, which featured tapestry coats and dresses in burnt oranges and reds and delicate embroidered flower patterns on black which were reminiscent of Russian dolls. The collection was mainly black, punctuated by airy chiffon pink and crystal-embellished full-length dresses with a 70s feel to sleeves and necklines – and, of course, the classic Valentino red.