In the aftermath of the party mood that permeated his autumn/winter anniversary show, Alber Elbaz presented a more austere version of the classic Lanvin aesthetic for spring/summer. Based around a mainly monochrome colour palette, the collection ranged from strictly cut tuxedos to square-shouldered vest tops and body-conscious mini dresses.
There was a touch of the orient in the wide obi belts and kimono-style jackets but on the whole the range felt muted; even the sequin embellishments, worn head-to-toe like slouchy suits of armour, had a dulled finish. Shapes were angular and strictly executed although Lanvin’s trademark bows still made an appearance on one-shouldered cocktail dresses and the pairing of party gowns with cowboy boots lent a touch of whimsy to what was otherwise a very serious presentation. The finale saw jewel tones enter the mix, cut into similarly square-shaped dresses, belted at the waist and teamed with subtle gold jewellery, but even these lacked the playfulness of previous seasons.
For the first season since its 10th anniversary celebrations, it seems Lanvin is experiencing a moody adolescence, albeit one with infused with elegance.
Pictures: © GoRunway.com