Despite the ongoing rumours surrounding Dior since John Galliano’s departure, Galliano’s former right-hand man Bill Gaytten rose above the debate and delved into the label’s archives to present a refined, elegant collection that defied the critics for a second season.
In honour of new brand face Mila Kunis, star of Black Swan, who took pride of place in the front row, the autumn/winter collection was rife with ballet references, from the heeled ballet pumps with squared pointe toes to the blush-toned wrap-around cardigans layered over chiffon tutu-like midi skirts. Elsewhere, strict tailoring was pared down and given a feminine twist with fitted pencil skirts, waist-enhancing belts and peplum tops.
The 50s style silhouettes were modernised and given an edge with asymmetric leather panels and a textured, abstract herringbone print on knits. Even so, evening wear was vintage Dior, with discreet gem embellishment on collars and capes, full-length gowns with plenty of movement and a colour palette of muted metallics, wine and jewel tones.