The catwalks of Helsinki Fashion Week AW16 were dominated by versatile, trans-seasonal looks that featured a palette of clean, layered black and white with flashes of bold colour. There was also a new take on romance, with pieces showcasing volume and ruffles for women. A more wintery mood could be seen in plush textures such as fur and feathers, while cottons and floaty silks with cut-out and slashed detailing could be worn during any season.
A Japanese-influenced mood prevailed for both men and women, with a minimalistic colour palette of black, white, chocolate and the subtlest pink. Brands such as Aito Studios and Marita Huurinainen showcased simple crisp cottons with kimono-ties and wrapped effects, while Soulpot Studio featured a modern take on the obi belt.
From sumptuous fur coats dyed in rich inky green and blue to a pom-pom-style fur stole, eveningwear with tassel-effect black marabou feathers and a velvet chocolate-coloured bib, this look was all about plush textures and adding a sense of luxury to winter staples.
Helsinki Fashion Week AW16 centred on signature Scandinavian style, with simple, pared-back clothing and a black-on-black, biscuit and white palette. There were, however, flashes of colour to lift the tone, such as deep, saturated hues of emerald green and cobalt blue at Marita Huurinainen; scarlet and powder pink from Lake; and flashes of metallic iridescence at Chapurin.
Cut out and keep
Designers got creative with cut-out effects and layered panelling. Flashes of shoulders, torsos and thighs were revealed with curved-cut necklines and slashes, offering just a glimpse of flesh in an otherwise covered-up collection.
Do the ruffle
Designers kicked back at minimalism by adding a subtle sense of femininity with ruffles and volume. There were oversized ruffles on sheer floaty organzas with shimmering gold embroidered thread at Benito Santos, fit-and-flare dresses at Marita Huurinainen and tiered, ruffle dresses in softened black at Chapurin.
Boys will be girls
Nordic style has never been afraid of androgyny and many looks channelled this aesthetic. Menswear featured traditionally feminine cuts and detailing on tunics, fringed skirts, wide-legged trousers and cropped sleeves, which still maintained a rugged and masculine edge.