The confidently calm and considered lifestyle advocated by Danes, and admired by the rest of the world, was also apparent in the fashion designs displayed on the catwalk in Copenhagen last week. With distinct aesthetics defining each individual brand, Danish designers opt for a steady evolution season to season, developing and building on their own unique themes and visions. However, trends do emerge across the board. Gemma Latham reports on the top 10 trends that connected the collections presented at Copenhagen Fashion Week spring/summer 2015.
The biggest trend across the board this season was sportswear. Even in the most elegant and formal collections a sporty influence was apparent, but many brands presented pieces that were clearly designed for getting active in. Ganni staged its show on a tennis court, setting the tone for relaxed daywear inspired by summer sporting parties in the Hamptons, the chic US seaside retreat, while Wali Mohammed Barrech’s models were ready to run a marathon in cycle shorts and vests printed with punchy graphics. Nicklas Kunz also showed an American influence with basketball shorts and hooded sweaters, while Han Kjøbenhavn and Baum und Pferdgarten revealed sophisticated sporty creations.
Monochrome is set to be another big trend, with nearly every brand interpreting the opposing tones in their own style: all-over prints at Baum und Pferdgarten, small details at Lace by Stasia, bold graphics at David Andersen, and to fun and quirky effect at Henrik Vibskov.
Laid-back glamour was provided in the form of long flowing fabrics, seen pleated at Designers Remix, printed at Ganni, and in blue lace at Lace by Stasia.
Vivid neon colours made an appearance in head-to-toe tech fabrics at Wali Mohammed Barrech, contrasted with nude tones at Veronica B Vallenes, and applied to distressed denim to achieve a punk-grunge effect at Asger Juel Larsen.
In complete contrast to the bright neon injections of colour, another tonal palette emerged. The new pastels are softer, more ethereal, barely there: a mere hint of colour, creating the most serene shades of blue, pink, caramel and peach as seen at Veronica B Vallenes, Designers Remix and By Malene Birger.
Abstract graphics were applied top to toe on sportswear at Han Kjøbehavn; on dresses, jackets, jumpers and shorts at Henrik Vibskov; and on tailoring at Asger Juel Larsen and Jean Phillip. More is more with this trend, so go all out.
As a welcome change from the soft fabrics and draping so familiar with Scandinavian style, brands such as Baum und Pferdgarten, Mark Kenly Domino Tan, Stine Ladefoged and David Andersen presented some beautifully structured silhouettes this season.
Danish men don’t really do formal. That’s not to say they never dress smartly, but there is always a casual edge to it. It wouldn’t be Copenhagen Fashion Week without some expertly styled casual tailoring and this year Henrik Silvius, Jean Phillip and Barbara I Gongini ticked that box perfectly.
Let’s get one thing straight: hot pants are out and long shorts are in. Whether it’s cycle shorts as seen at Freya Dalsjø and Wali Mohammed Barrech or board shorts as seen at Nicklas Kunz and Ganni, for men or women, printed or plain, Danish designers have got a pair to suit all styles and tastes. Any makes a practical and versatile wardrobe staple to be worn over and over again throughout the summer months.
Nothing says summer better than white, and it was seen in abundance across the shows with head-to-toe pure white ensembles for both men and women in the form of sheer and sporty separates at By Malene Birger, tailored streetwear at David Andersen and sculpted pieces at Henrik Vibskov.