Boy meets girl
With menswear and womenswear often shown together, designers made the most of the juxtaposition of the genders as girls and boys took to the catwalk in co-ordinating outfits. Wood Wood, Bibi Chemnitz and Henrik Vibskov all made ‘couples dressing’ seem the height of cool.
From 2OR+Byyat’s spray-on leggings to Birger Christensen’s leather fringed capes, black was everywhere in Copenhagen. Whether thrown on in casual layers or elegantly flowing around the body, as in Katri N’s feathered evening gown, black is back with a vengeance.
At the other end of the colour spectrum, designers indulged in candy colours and pretty pastels, decisively taking one of summer’s biggest trends through to autumn. Benedikte Utzon explored pastels through layered chiffon, while Stine Goya and Baum und Pferdgarten wrapped their models up in creamy-coloured coats.
The boys rocked it head-to-toe at David Andersen and Mads Nørgaard. For girls it was all about the unexpected injection, with Ganni giving its models basketball-style shorts in soft, slouchy leather and AF Vandevorst showing elbow-length leather gloves worthy of Dumas’s famous musketeer d’Artagnan.
Scandinavian style is nonchalant with a polished edge, and that’s exactly what designers gave us this season when it came to tailoring. Day Birger et Mikkelsen added a masculine touch with brogues and a longline bomber jacket, while Munthe offered mix-and-match suits in gunmetal and peach. At Wackerhaus the irreverence was turned up a notch with head-to-toe silver.
Checks, plaid, houndstooth … on scarves at Bruuns Bazaar, on tunics at By Malene Birger, or all over and all at once at Baum und Pferdgarten, you could see all these prints on the catwalks of Copenhagen.
Scandinavians are practised at layering with style and it showed both on and off the catwalks. Barbara I Gongini tied and twisted layers of black around models, while By Malene Birger’s more formal approach featured slick tailoring layered under sequins and fur. Wali Mohammed Barrech’s menswear may look a little extreme but in the frost and snow we could instantly see the appeal.
Pinstripes broke out of the boardroom this season, finding themselves on conceptual three-piece suits at Born in Peru and androgynous tailoring at AF Vandevorst. By Malene Birger made them evening-appropriate in luxe materials combined with sequins and leopard print.
The trend for matching separates continues, with Asger Juel Larsen and Stine Goya making us covet printed co-ords in icy blues. By Ti Mo proved that block colour can work just as well with a close-to-perfect look in rich navy.
Somewhere between a balaclava and a beanie, furry hats that looped under the chin were the order of the week at Anne Sofie Madsen, Baum und Pferdgarten, Kopenhagen Fur, Henrik Vibskov, among others. An easy trend to work, this is one we’ll be picking up right away, before spring sets in.