With its seafront location and spacious suntrap of a terrace, the Salt Room feels as though it belongs in Biarritz rather than Brighton. Located less than an hour from London, the restaurant boasts a chic, understated interior and an elegant drinks list. Aperitifs include two different types of Negroni and the Seven Dials cocktail – an impressive mix of sherry, rye whiskey, Dubonnet and pickled almond.
The Salt Room is not your typical seaside eatery. Its website describes it as a modern British seafood and grill restaurant, and local produce and sharing plates are a central focus. We ordered the salt cod fritters with smoked roe; the fritters managed to be both dense with cod and crisply light, while the roe, despite its slightly startling grey colour, had a glorious depth of flavour. The bread, baked in-house, was an unexpected highlight, served with two types of butter, one studded with more roe and another flavoured with charcoal salt.
The spectacular fruits de mer sharing platter was piled high with succulent prawns, oysters and crab, and served simply to great effect, allowing the quality of the seafood to sing out. Hot dishes such as cod with broccoli and crayfish orzo or the South Indian fish burger were the perfect balance of clever flavour combinations while still appearing uncomplicated and effortless.
The Salt Room, 106 King’s Road, Brighton BN1 2FU, +44 (0)1273 929488