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Stockholm Fashion Week autumn/winter 2013/14: trend report


Stockholm presented its collections for autumn/winter 2013/14 last week against a perfect, shiny, wintry backdrop of snow and ice. Temperatures had plummeted to minus 10 the weekend before the style crowd arrived and cosy knits and protective outerwear were on everyone’s minds – and backs. More eyes than ever were on the biannual Mercedes-Benz event, held mainly across two locations, Berns Salonger and Berzelii Park. Global Blue reports on the highlights

Feature
Dominique Fenn,

DAY ONE:

 

Bea Åkerlund, the stylist who has worked with Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Madonna, was appointed as the official show opener, getting things underway in a stunning custom-made BLK DNM leather dress.

The Local Firm was the first to take to the runway – its urban collection was a pleasing mix of black leather with fringe detailing and chic separates.

Up next, Hunkydory, the label often described as the Isabel Marant of Sweden, is known for its bohemian and laid-back aesthetic. The collection was inspired by the 1960s, with skinny trousers and smart velvet jackets.

Finnish fashion and design house Marimekko’s collection, Art of Print Making – Colour for a Season, was influenced by bold colours and unconventional patterns, combining relaxed tones with vibrant accents on shift dresses and loose trousers.

Stylein used its autumn/winter 2013/14 collection to celebrate strong-minded performers, artists and visionaries who are renowned for refusing to conform. Masculine tailoring met feminine silhouettes to create interesting contrasts. ‘We like the feeling of being in the wrong context. To bring your own glamorous world into a mundane everyday life, without letting your environment affect you,’ says Elin Nyström, Stylein’s chief of design.

Odd Mollys show closed the first day and took place, unexpectedly, on a pop up ice-rink outside the pavilion; the models danced and skated in the folk-inspired collection, which featured light, feminine fabrics, crochet, neutral-coloured cottons and lots of embellishment.

 

DAY TWO:

 

Congratulations to Minju Kim, who was announced first thing on the second day as the winner of this year’s H&M Design Award. The 26-year-old student from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp was selected from eight finalists by a jury that included designer Jonathan Saunders, blogger Hanneli Mustaparta, stylist Leith Clark, photographer Sølve Sundsbø, editor Tim Blanks and H&M’s creative advisor Margareta van den Bosch.

Kim’s conceptual collection, inspired by the Japanese Manga artist Junji Ito, was cartoon-like and playful, with delightful pastel colours and brilliant jumpsuits that resembled furry teddy bears. The collection will be in stores later in the year. A spokesperson for H&M said: ‘In the end there was one designer who impressed us with their creativity, craftsmanship and their delightfully obsessive approach to their work and that person is… Minju Kim!’

Dagmar, the award-winning brand internationally recognised for its contemporary twist on traditional craftsmanship, presented fitted, sleek separates, capes and dresses under the title of The New Renaissance in a warm palette of violet, caramel and soft black – each look topped off with military-style tweed caps and thick horizontal stripes in the models’ long hair.

Cheap Monday transported the audience back to the 90s for a show set in a former high school gymnasium. We waited for the show to begin sitting on sports benches and listening to the eerie sound of screeching trainers and basketballs bouncing. A soundtrack of remixed Nirvana and Hole played while models with braided hair displayed a mash-up of distressed denim, lace trouser and plaid shirts under the theme of Artificial Grunge.

Roland Hjort, head designer for Whyred, presented the finale of the day with a collection made up of suede, tweed, denim and leather, seen by some as a return to the brand’s roots. Updated classics – tailored trousers and blazers, cocktail dresses and longer coats – were feminine and simple.

 

DAY THREE:

 

The final day began with AltewaiSaome. Inspired by a trip to New York, the brand’s design duo Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome presented army green quilted jackets, long, casual, day dresses, and leather jackets with clean lines and an urban feel.

J Lindeberg looked closer to home for inspiration and turned to the Stockholm city library, an extraordinary building created by legendary architect Erik Gunnar Asplund. Sharp tailoring was evident in both the men’s and women’s collections and was utterly wearable, as expected from the successful designer. Structured shapes and patterns were a direct reference to the building, while the palette of deep green, burgundy and reds was taken from the rich colours of the traditional desks and lamps found inside.

Tiger of Sweden, the brand that started in 1903 in a small town on the Swedish coast, has become a firm fashion favourite both locally and internationally, and closed Stockholm Fashion Week with a standout show that juxtaposed the brand’s tailoring heritage with utilitarian clothing boldly colour-blocked in black and deep purple.

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