From frocks festooned with flowers, chevron stripes and cut-out ruffles to clinical minimalism, Oriental influences and the requisite shot of sex appeal, Global Blue summarises the key trends from Milan Fashion Week for spring/summer 2013
In Milan everything was coming up ... daisies. The humble flower, a recurring motif at the shows, became a symbol of the Swinging Sixties at Moschino on jaunty mini dresses with square necklines worn with backcombed Julie Christie hair. At Versus, the daisy appeared as a repeat pattern with in a modern take on print, and Dolce & Gabbana’s Sicilian holiday (pre-Godfather era) collection included a standout stripy frock decorated with handcrafted flowers that looked like traditional festival corsages. Prada, as is often the case, took a counter-approach, keeping its daisies brooding and austere, rather like Japanese origami sculptures. Flowers were dotted across bags and glasses frames, appliqued onto clothes and even woven into furs.
Stopping the traffic
Graphic go-faster stripes showed up everywhere, especially at Fendi, where dresses featured chevron stripes and leather swing coats were emblazoned with road markings. At Sportmax, cited as one of Milan’s highlights by many of the front row, a white jumper was cut in two by a thick red stripe across the front, while easy sports-luxe pieces received a dose of Formula 1 sex appeal with green, black and white separates that made it clear these girls had no need of L-plates. There was leopard print at Just Cavalli. Fendi heralded the print revolution with graphic digital images superimposed onto wrap dresses whose folds and pleats referenced kimono style. Pucci’s sheer tunics and wide-legged trousers were the result of the label’s current love affair with Vietnam. Think dragon and tiger embroidery on mini kimonos and slinky, ankle-length jersey dresses. And, of course that bright red show-stopper of a dress with cheongsam side detailing, side splits and a seriously sexy high neckline.
Bold was beautiful as Frida Giannini at Gucci showcased jewel-toned delights in fuchsia, azalea pink and electric blue on full-length dresses and matchy-matchy trouser suits, while there were vivid yellows and oranges at Versace. It was the cut-out and ruffled backs at Gucci that clinched the back’s status as the new erogenous zone. For a more restrained take on the trend, look to Jil Sander, where a navy jacket was sliced shorter at the back to reveal a hint of flesh. Never one to shy away from playing the sex card, Donatella Versace gave us tie-dye dresses that revealed an Angelina Jolie-worthy portion of leg – the look was Mad Max-meets-Flintstones with cut-out bodices, fringed waistbands and studded leather seams.
More versus less
Modern primary shades with a hint of hedonistic raver style ruled at Versus, whose catwalk show garnered uber party status thanks to Lego disco shoes, Christopher Kane’s ultra-short, It-girl creations and a performance by Beth Ditto. The antidote, if you need one, came in the form of palette-cleansing white worn in clean, sharp lines as clinical minimalism staged a comeback in Marni’s full-skirted, virginal white dresses and Jil Sander’s futuristic creations with hologram dots scattered over snow-white ensembles.
Isabel Dexter is a freelance style editor and contributes to the Times and Marie Claire UK. She blogs at http://blogs.marieclaire.co.uk/category/isabel-dexter/
Pictures: © GoRunway.com