This season Donatella took the gothic theme seen elsewhere in Milan and interpreted it in a very Versace way. Recalling the high-octane collections of old, this was the gothic rock star, seen in the fishnet stockings, body-hugging leather dresses and chainmail panels.
Hourglass silhouettes were emphasised with corset-style tops and pencil skirts drawn in with waist-enhancing belts and peplums, while a recurring crucifix pattern, emblazoned on to black velvet and sparkling with red and green gemstones on similarly dark backdrops, added to the theme of dark seduction.
Black was the dominant colour, occasionally punctuated with flashes of yellow, orange and metallics that lightened the mood but remained edgy in tone. The collection’s final flourish, a selection of full-length gowns featuring waist cut-outs and armour-like metallic plating, were particularly effective and likely to be seen on only the most daring of celebrities during the next awards season. A star-studded and eclectic front row – Anna Wintour, Anna Dello Russo, supermodel Alek Wek, designer Christopher Kane and popstar Pixie Lott – showed the label’s enduring relevance.