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Fashion commentators look to Prada to launch the new season’s trends and, judging by this collection, autumn/winter is going to be much more austere. Black was prominent, as was harsh, masculine tailoring, although the playful Prada still shone through in block jewel embellishments and clashing geometric prints.
Accessories also showed that Miuccia Prada hasn’t lost her sense of humour; block-coloured platform Mary Janes and brogues appeared to melt into the floor while the models’ hair was dip-dyed and streaks of orange and violet were plastered across, above and below eyes. Otherwise Prada played it quite safe; the crazy banana prints and racing-car footwear seen previously were not in evidence. Instead, ankle-skimming trousers were accompanied by mid-length skirts, cropped jackets and long coats, belted at the empire line.
Busy geometric prints came as a welcome relief to the otherwise dark colour palette, worn head to toe in clashing combinations: orange against red and yellow set against deep violet. The vibrant prints may only appear in the most daring of wardrobes, but the very wearable, heavily embellished ensembles in black are sure to be widely adopted come autumn.
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