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Milan Men’s Fashion Week: trend report

After the excitement of London Collections: Men, the fashion buyers and editors head to Milan. With stiff competition from London and its new generation of young designers and established brands, it is particularly interesting to see which direction the Italians are taking

Gary Kingsnorth,

Despite missing family member Vittorio Missoni, whose plane disappeared in Venezuela earlier this year, the house decided the show must go on. The 60th anniversary collection, inspired by the landscapes of the US, found Missoni in fine form, showing its signature knitwear in red, camel and browns mixed with sophisticated overcoats and denim in a contemporary and understated collection.

One of the highlights of Milan fashion week was Prada, with a set designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, complete with city views. The collection was straight out of the 60s, with cropped jackets and trousers; the slim silhouettes mixed with oversized knitwear, red leather jackets and leather oversized coats had me rushing to find the nearest Prada store.

Frida Giannini, the creative director of Gucci, also transported us back to the 60s. As she explains, ‘The Gucci man expresses his inherently free spirit with bold nonchalance… this is a contemporary gentleman with a romantic soul.’ The collection was pure luxury and everything you would expect from Gucci. Inspired by England, the slim tailoring, luxurious knitwear, baby blue outerwear, duffle coats, equestrian-inspired overcoats and sophisticated dinner suits show there is no sexier label than Gucci.

Roberto Cavalli opted for a static presentation rather than the catwalk this season, for a rock-and-roll-inspired collection perfect for the jet set or the red carpet.

With a collection that looked to Tibet, Scotland and Nepal for inspiration, the house of Etro showed a strong collection of mustard, herringbone, corduroy and knitwear. The Italian brand is renowned for its unique craftsmanship and use of prints, and colour remains at the heart of Etro.

The audience at Emporio Armani included handsome young British actor Sam Claflin. The young, slim and elegant collection was on trend, with styles in mustard, camel and cobalt blue making an appearance and confirming that a new era has dawned for menswear.

Finally, Italian duo Dolce & Gabbana decided to cast young Sicilian men instead of the buff male models we are used to seeing on the catwalk. A collection that was heavily inspired by Catholicism included prints of Sicilian churches, and other religious images also featured.

As the demand for luxury clothing soars, Milan shows the world what is does best and why its designers will remain relevant. There is no denying the Italians are the stars of the luxury market.



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