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Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS14: Weekend highlights


Milan Men’s Fashion Week kicked off this weekend; catch up on everything from the spring/summer 2014 collections

Katie Ramsingh ,

Saturday

Ermenegildo Zegna
10.50am:
Stefano Pilati made his return to the runway this season, following his departure from Yves Saint Laurent last year. Now at the helm of Ermenegildo Zegna he gave new life to the Italian powerhouse, introducing colour and mismatched patterned suits.

Dolce & Gabbana
2.05pm:
You can always rely on a Dolce & Gabbana show to go off with a bang and this season’s menswear show was no different. A former intern streaked across the runway and was removed by security, but that did little to detract from the might of the new-season collection. Inspired by Sicily and classic Greek mythology, this collection could well be interpreted as a message about the power of the house and its refusal to back down in the face of its current troubles.

Jil Sander
4.12pm:
Jil Sander always exudes cool and her collection of scribble-print suits, baggy shorts and rubberised jackets are a brilliant reflection of what the boys on the street are wearing right now. The collection brilliantly captures the zeitgeist and its pops of vibrant pink and fluoro orange reflect the wider trend for colour this season.

Versace
8pm:
Tie-dye, safari, military and suiting: the Versace spring/summer 2014 menswear show seemed to be trying to do it all. Whilst the looks were all extremely different, the models were unified by fluorescent stickers worn on their arms and legs, reminiscent of body paint. Sticking to the classic Versace aesthetic of studs, baroque detailing and very short shorts, the collection was a celebration of the hypermasculinity the house of Versace does so well.

 

Sunday

Calvin Klein Collection
2.03pm:
Calvin Klein may be best known as the ruler of the men’s underwear market but the spring/summer 2014 collection proved the label is not to be underestimated as a fashion innovator. The new collection was a stark contrast to anything shown at Milan so far. With icy all-blue looks, crocodile-print biker jackets and photographic-print sweatshirts, this was a commercial and, more importantly, extremely modern Calvin Klein.

Vivienne Westwood
3pm:
Westwood referenced India as the main inspiration for the spring/summer 2014 Man collection, which featured military berets, kurta-style one-pieces and vibrant, clashing summer colours. There was also an element of political comment in her show, as models wore T-shirts and pins referring to Bradley Manning and activist Leonard Peltier.

Missoni
4.15pm:
Missoni does summer so well and seems to have got the season down to a fine art. Take lightweight summer knits in a colour palette of warm beige, sea blues, greens and reds. Add some woven zigzags and classic Missoni stripes, finish with some signature scarves and accessories – and voila, the perfect summer collection.

Prada
6.30pm
: Everyone eagerly awaits Prada’s shows as Miuccia Prada manages to transport her audience to a new territory every season. For spring/summer 2014 we appeared to be holidaying in a dark paradise. The collection featured tropical prints and beach motifs but these were hidden under dark suit jackets or poking out from polo tops. The retro-feel silk bombers, brightly decorated suitcases and baggy trouser suits made this collection an obvious ode to the traveller.

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