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Discover the Wempe-Cut® diamond


Luxury German jeweller Wempe is celebrating the launch of its signature diamond cut: the Wempe-Cut®. Ruairidh Pritchard speaks to the brand exclusively to explore its sparkling new addition

Ruairidh Pritchard
Ruairidh Pritchard ,

When it comes to classic European timepieces, few brands can match the reputation, variety or quality of Wempe. The Hamburg-based family company, which offers its own standout designs as well as a multitude of watches from top international brands, has become an authority on all things horological. In recent years, however, Wempe’s jewellery line has also been turning heads, and with good reason.

A new chapter
The By Kim jewellery range has opened a new chapter in the company’s 135-year history. It is named after the brand’s charismatic chief executive officer, Kim-Eva Wempe, great-granddaughter of founder Gerhard Wempe, and the latest collection marks a landmark achievement for the brand, as it launches its very own signature diamond cut.

‘For us as a company, the Wempe-Cut® is a milestone in the development of the jewellery brand,’ explains Anja Heiden, who sits on the Wempe board of directors. ‘The diamond is the most important gemstone for us and with our own cut, we have not only proved our innovative strength and creativity in this field, but have also succeeded in creating extraordinary added value for our customers.’

Creating the Wempe-Cut® diamond
The development of the cut itself focused almost entirely on how best to exhibit the quality of the diamonds. All the diamonds are graded with the colour ‘rare white’ or ‘rare white +’ and are classified as either VVS or VS, two of the highest degrees of clarity.

During the design process, the diamond specialists at Wempe worked with the company’s master diamond cutters to develop a variety of potential cuts. As Heiden explains, ‘It absolutely had to be a round cut – and it had to considerably increase the diamond’s brilliance and light reflection. Three prototypes were manufactured, based on our requirements. One fulfilled all of them and, moreover, it looked beautiful. That was the one to become the Wempe-Cut®.’

Ensuring the highest quality
After each new Wempe-Cut® diamond is crafted, every individual stone is certified by Hoge Raad voor Diamant, the world-renowned certification authority and gemmology institute in Antwerp. During this process, some of the world’s leading diamond experts inspect each stone to determine its cut, colour, clarity and carat – the hallowed four Cs on which the diamond industry is built. All the rough stones are certified by the United Nations Kimberley Process, an international scheme that ensures diamonds are appropriately sourced.

A truly unique stone
The new cut, which appears for the first time in By Kim’s latest jewellery collection Splendora, features a total of 137 facets – an increase from 57 facets in Wempe’s brilliant-cut gems. The 18-carat white gold setting is elegant and understated, ensuring the main focus of the Splendora line is undoubtedly the Wempe-Cut® diamond. The line comprises three standout pieces: a ring, earrings and a pendant. Each features Wempe-Cut® diamonds of either one, 1.4 or two carats in a four-prong setting, the interior of which features 16 further brilliant-cut 0.09-carat diamonds.

Wempe’s most brilliant jewellery
Heiden and the designers at Wempe are set to include the cut across a much wider array of pieces, including bespoke jewellery for some of their most discerning clients. ‘Splendora is the first By Kim line that we will present with the exclusive Wempe-Cut®,’ Heiden explains, ‘but it is certainly not the last. Customers may also have the Wempe-Cut® set in any other setting of their choice.’

This flexibility and open-mindedness, and constant consideration of clients’ wishes, keeps Wempe at the forefront of its field. The brand builds on its long history by constantly pushing forward, enthusiastically pursuing new ideas and new ways to convey its elegant, luxury aesthetic. From the exquisite Wempe-Cut® diamonds to the classic yet contemporary jewellery in which they are set, every piece by Wempe has been considered down to the last detail, and this commitment to true excellence shines through.

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