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Berlin Fashion Week AW13/14: day one


Berlin Fashion Week autumn/winter 2013/14 has officially begun and we’ve been following it every step of the way with up-to-the-minute catwalk photos, backstage previews and first-hand impressions from the front row as next season’s collections make their debuts. Here’s what happened on day one

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Sally Ashley-Cound,

10am: Laos-born designer Hien Le, whose designs are stocked in one of Berlin’s top department stores Quartier 206, kicked off the shows with a collection which was praised for its simplicity, style and minimalist feel.

Stylist Linda Lund tweeted: 'Dark blues, a lot of beige tones, transparency, gradient fabrics and a subtle minimalistic elegance @ Hien Le’s show. Good opening 4 #BFW’

10.15am: While Hien Le’s girls were walking down the runway to songs by Michael Jackson, preparations were in full swing for Lena Hoschek’s show at 11.30am. The designer, whose designs are available in Frankfurt’s stylish and modern department store August Pfüller, tweeted pictures of the chaos backstage as hair and make-up options were discussed, and the bags of goodies that were waiting for show goers.

10.29am: The break between Le and Hoschek gave time to see Sissi Goetze’s collection. Goetze, who graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2010, could be the next to benefit from the success that the prestigious London college brought to fellow graduate Christopher Kane, as her designs will be stocked in Berlin’s Quartier 206 from later this month.

11.30am: Lena Hoschek’s ultra-feminine style showed no sign of stopping as models walked the runway in silhouettes reminiscent of Dior’s 1947 New Look, while tapestry and flower-patterned fabrics lent a distinctly folkloric feel to the collection.

Blogger Les Berlinettes tweeted: ‘Gipsy ladies at Lena Hoscheck #bfw #mbfwb’

Stylist Linda Lund tweeted: ‘#LenaHoschek presents the greatest Russian/Ukrainian #punk rock #housewives! #50s inspired dresses with an ironic wink! Love it!!! #BFW

11.54am: Dorothee Schumacher was well on her way to bringing together the final parts of her show. The designer, whose collection goes out on Thursday morning, has been in casting all day, tweeting photographs of Tank editor Caroline Issa helping to choose models while sitting on the floor of Schumacher’s studio.

12.06pm: Munich-based label Schacky and Jones, which is available at German department store KaDeWe, showed its collection at Hotel de Rome on Behrenstrasse. The designer duo stayed true to their roots with the autumn/winter 2013/14 collection, which used fine leather and furs to create easy-to-wear yet stunning pieces.

1pm: Inspired by her time in New Delhi, Austrian-born Rebekka Ruétz’s designs are rich in colour and fabric. This season’s collection was no different, with sumptuous velvet and leather in black and mustard-gold draped effortlessly, echoing the silhouettes seen in Lena Hoschek’s collection earlier in the day. Knitted coats and chiffon column dresses in peach and cream lightened the collection.

3pm: Perret Schaad kicked off its autumn/winter 2013/14 collection with the punchy colours and elegantly laidback cuts for which the label is known. The collection was softened later on with hints of gold, muted patterns and asymmetric layering. Tipped for success in 2010 when the duo won local government-run design prize Start Your Own Fashion Business, these young designers get stronger every season.

Blogger Dias of Diaz tweeted: Stunning ‪#red at ‪#PerretSchaad - love the ‪#draping ‪@MBFWB ‪#fashionweek ‪#mbfwb

4.09pm: Excitement was building for Peek & Cloppenburg's Designer for Tomorrow Leandro Cano's new collection

Blogger Nadine Knobelsdorf tweeted: Ready for Designer for tomorrow. Good Luck Leandro Cano #mbfwb

Carolin Brandt, CEO of La Clé marketing management, tweeted: ‘Designer for tomorrow Award Winner Leandro Cano...had a Sneak Peek already...such an awesome collection...so excited...on NOW #MBFWB’

Blogger Priscilla Obermeier tweeted: ‘Waiting for - and very excited about - 'Designer for Tomorrow' Leandro Cano A/W 2013/2014...’

6pm: Perhaps the most hotly anticipated show of day one was that of Leandro Cano, named Peek & Cloppenburg’s Designer for Tomorrow by Marc Jacobs at the last fashion week. Cano has been given guidance in all aspects of the fashion industry, including public relations, production and finance, over the past six months, as well as studio space and a visit to Marc Jacobs’ studios in New York and Paris for personal coaching in design.

The quality of Cano’s training over the past few months showed in his collection, which was absolutely stunning. Sculptural and structured shapes have become Cano’s signature, and this collection under the guidance of Marc Jacobs extends the organic nature of his designs right out from the fabric with handcrafted porcelain embroidery.

Maja MA tweeted: ‘So Far The Best Show Of BFW By LEANDRO CANO, Amazing!!!’

Follow the link to see the highlights from BFW in pictures

See what happened on day two here

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