Stefano Pilati’s final collection for Yves Saint Laurent saw the toughest, darkest YSL woman yet. Leather, rubber and chainmmail were the materials of choice, in dark colours which didn’t rise above deep, jewel-toned purple, green and maroon.
The elegant, modern silhouette paid homage to YSL of the 70s and 80s as sharp, high-waisted trousers which hung to the ankle were topped with large-lapelled jackets with room in the shoulders. Pilati also referenced the classic YSL all-in-one tuxedo, updated with wide leather belts. Sleek, high-necked, chain-mail dresses shielded a dark green or purple base. Mirrored Perspex heels, slicked-back hair and deep red lips finished the high-drama look.
The close of the show saw a standing ovation from the crowd, which included long-time YSL ambassador Catherine Deneuve showing her approval alongside Salma Hayek and François-Henri Pinault. Nicolas Ghesquière’s presence brought forward the question that is on everyone’s mind: who will take the reins at YSL next?