For autumn/winter Barbara Bui began with understated, elegant tailoring with military undertones and ended up taking attendees on safari with metallic animal prints and a tiger image reminiscent of William Blake’s raw 19th-century depiction.
The opening looks reflected the opulent surroundings of the show space, featuring monochrome pairings of fitted shirts and tailored trousers, made more feminine with whimsical ribbon ties which were slightly Edwardian in tone. This was equally strong for evening where jackets in black brocade were paired with satin trousers, pointed heels adding a touch of androgynous elegance.
Military tones came through in the use of khaki, seen in flowing greatcoats, double-breasted uniform blazers and jumpsuits, but this soon made way for gowns in tarnished metallic: billowing bohemian dresses tied with rope belts and boasting floral watercolour prints topped with statement metallic bomber jackets. This was a sophisticated take on safari, with luxurious fabrics, animal prints with a subtle sheen and oversized furs teamed with chunky cable knitwear and leather: the golden age of exploration reinvented for the modern adventurer.