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Paris Men’s Fashion Week spring/summer 2014: weekend highlights


This weekend saw a vibrant mixture of shows, with an early start at Kenzo followed by a mid-afternoon showcase at Dior. To end Paris Men’s Fashion Week we look at the most talked-about label in the city: Saint Laurent

Marina Nelson,

Saturday

Kenzo
Kenzo opened the weekend shows with a simple, minimalist collection that diverged from the usual experimental prints we’ve all come to love. Cobalt blue curved shoulderpieces were teamed with simple, loose trousers cropped at the ankle. The label’s patterned style appeared towards the end of the show, teaming contrasting print tops and casual joggers for a new take on sports luxe.

@HNpaula tweeted: Loved the scribble prints at Kenzo #pfw @harveynichols

Dior Homme
The house of Dior mixed sharp tailoring with casual sports luxe to create a look for the modern Dior man. Burgundy tailored suits opened the show, then simple black waistcoats joined the collection, with matching city shorts.

@HarrodsMen tweeted: It's an Aubergine dream here at @Dior Homme. #PFW

Shorts gradually grew even shorter as the show progressed and longline coats made an appearance. To close the Dior showcase, sporty edges were introduced, with colour-blocking panels and oversized cubic prints. Sticking to Dior’s classic aesthetic, all the models worked classic leather brogues, showing sports luxe can be formal as well as fashionable.

@FrontRowSuit tweeted: Tuxedo silks on sportswear at Dior Homme SS14 #PFW

 

Sunday

Lanvin
The collection from Lanvin took the black and white soirée theme into the next realm with cocoon shapes, cropped sleeves, high-waisted trousers and trench coats offering unconventional attire for next season. Colours started with black, cream and greige before red, teal and khaki took the collection on a sporty trail.

@iD_magazine tweeted: Tailored touch. On a hot summer's day the legs come out. Super short shorts at #lanvin #ss14 #pfw

Paul Smith
British menswear favourite Paul Smith stuck to his signature simple trousers teamed with vibrant tops and tailored jackets for a bright summer look. Summer colours included mustard yellow, bubblegum, fuchsia pink and coral. Motif tops, floral patterns and cubic prints were gradually introduced into the collection, showing Mr Smith likes to experiment with new styles.

@HarrodsMen tweeted: The @PaulSmithDesign finale. Paul Smith takes in the applause at as #PFW turns pink.

Saint Laurent
After a controversial start at Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane has stuck to his punk-rock signature for the modern man.

@BritishGQ1 tweeted: Classic Slimane at @YSL: mixing rock & roll tailoring with heavy metallics to a blasting soundtrack by Sam Flax #pfw #saintlaurent

The anarchic collection combined styles from different eras, from 50s western themes and 60s checkerboard prints to 80s bomber jackets. Each model wore super-skinny cigarette pants in varying styles, including scarlet red PVC.

@hero_magazine tweeted: YES! Sequinned vampire lips jacket at Saint Laurent. So much spirit, another banging collection @YSL #pfw #SS14

As Slimane starts to experiment with softer patterns outside the grunge aesthetic, Saint Laurent is definitely one to watch.

@hero_magazine tweeted: High-waisted, hands in pockets at @YSL  - drainpipes, buckle boots, suspended leopard jackets, sequin argyle #pfw

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