Last night saw some of the week’s most anticipated shows take Paris by storm. Vivienne Westwood drew inspiration from the Middle Ages in a collection which included full skirts, lace constructed from fine leather and goddess-like drapery, delivering knock-out look after knock-out look.
Next up was Comme des Garçons, which broke away from anything we’ve seen so far this Paris Fashion Week with a show which felt distinctly like an exhibition of the label’s finest works. Each of the looks had its own song to accompany it and practicality was left at the door as elaborately structured dresses, tunics and skirts became the main focus of head designer Rei Kawakubo’s architectural spectacle.
If there was ever a grand master of Paris Fashion Week, it would be Jean Paul Gaultier. Always keen to put on more than a mere show, Gaultier once again provided the eager crowds with a chic cabaret, reminiscent of the classic movie Grease. Models were decked out in the kind of skin-tight leathers Sandy wore after her makeover, while Coco Rocha played Gaultier’s Danny in deconstructed biker garb, with metallics, lace and glitter playing an impressive supporting role in the evening’s stunning theatrical performance.
Kenzo opened this morning with the label’s newest reincarnation of contemporary cool in a sea of black, white and blue. It was clear this season’s Kenzo statement was to be whirlpool-inspired prints set across some of the boxier shapes we had seen in the label’s earlier menswear collections, alongside fish-print blazers and crop tops inspired by ocean waves.
Meanwhile, French powerhouse Céline made a welcome return to the 90s, with a colourful collection comprising double-breasted silk blazers, voluminous T-shirt tunics, swooping multi-colour paintbrush prints and jagged, asymmetrical hemlines, all offset by oversized, industrially inspired chrome jewellery, resulting in a collection with a distinctly more youthful, edgier feel than anything we have previously seen from the label.
However, it was Chloé who showed the freshest looks of the day, with other-worldly flowing skirts and an abundance of pleats in a palette of black, whites, blues and khaki. Silky blouses with peaked shoulders and shorts cut to the knee provided the deepest breath of fresh, Parisian air during today’s proceedings.