Native American met the Wild West at Junya Watanabe with ‘wild’ being the operative word. Draped and layered suede jackets and long trenches were worn over dresses, ponchos and longer skirts – all slashed and fringed to create wonderful movement as the models walked – in a palette of black, beige and charcoal grey. His signature black leather jacket was there and, of course, denim, given the Watanabe touch – patchworked, ripped and turned up; we’ll be counting the pairs worn on the front row next season. Braided and almost dreadlock-like hair was heaped on top of the head, topped with incredible tall feathered headpieces later in the show.
The catwalk was covered in black glittering sand, with trance music playing out, as Haider Ackermann’s fleet of female dandies walked out in skinny-fit trousers with long drape jackets and oversized blazers. A master of tailoring, Ackermann used rich jacquard fabrics yet somehow gave the pieces delicacy and lightness. The detailing of each look was highlighted by the intense spotlights, which allowed the metallic colours of inky blue and amethyst purple to shine.
‘We don't need no education,’ those famous lyrics from Pink Floyd’s Brick in the Wall, blared out as Viktor & Rolf’s girl gang walked out in white shirts, miniskirts and blazers with badges and motifs on the pockets. The theme continued with cropped knits featuring house badges and shirts with a spilled-ink print. The hair, by Luigi Murenu, was slicked back and long.
Jonny Johansson, creative director of cult Swedish brand Acne, confessed that he has ‘always been surrounded by water’ in the show notes and so the sails were set. It was never going to be a typical nautically inspired collection, however, although there were stripes, sailor dresses and anchor motifs. The show opened with an operatic song about the poetry of the ocean; then followed a sea of blues, with red and yellows as well, although the collection was dominated by white. Crisp, cool baggy trousers and shorts were paired with shirts, and jumpers were lightweight and oversized – all, as always, entirely wearable and extremely covetable. The day before the show, the brand opened its first store on Paris’s Rive Gauche, at 1 quai Voltaire.