Interview with Lindsey Tramuta

You are originally from Philadelphia. How long have you lived in Paris and what made you decide to move?

I’ve just entered my 12th year in Paris! I was studying French literature and linguistics in college and had several opportunities during my studies to come to France. Those trips happened to be focused primarily in Paris and that’s ultimately where I decided to stay. I knew that it was here that I felt the most comfortable. 

Your recently published book The New Paris talks about the city’s evolution. What culinary trends have you noticed in the city and do you have any favourite new openings?

In the time that I have lived in Paris, the city has gone from a state of change-phobic paralysis to rapid transformation in everything from food to urban design and craftsmanship. In cuisine, the biggest evolution has seen the arrival and embracing of foreign influence, less formality, greater creative freedom and better ingredients. Today, it continues to shift with renewed interest in classic cuisine and that has led to the opening of a number of bistros and brasseries that honour the past but get rid of what doesn’t work or what wouldn’t resonate with today’s tastes. They aren’t new openings but I love La Bourse et La Vie and Chez La Vieille – both in my book – for their contribution to this revival. 

Which is your favourite arrondissement and why?

The 11th arrondissement – it’s where I have lived for 12 years. The most densely populated arrondissement in the city, it is full of little village-like pockets that make it feel homey and it’s bursting with some of the city’s best restaurants. There’s really no reason to leave or venture too far.

What are the must-do activities during a weekend in Paris?

Follow your interests – don’t invest an entire day in a museum if you’re not genuinely enthralled by art. Spend your time strolling around different neighbourhoods, make a stop at the Palais Royal gardens, one of my favourite spots in the city, eat a bit of traditional and new, and do whatever makes you happy. Paris more than delivers. 

Your blog has lots of great guides to food and drink spots in Paris. Where are your favourite drinking haunts and are there any wine bars we shouldn’t miss?

For coffee, I’m a regular at Café Oberkampf, Café Méricourt, Café Loustic and La Fontaine de Belleville, and that last one happens to be one of my favourite spots for an apéro – it’s got craft beer on tap and affordable wines by the glass. If I’m not there, I may be at Bar Martin where the vibe is rollicking and the drinks and nibbles are wildly good and easy on the wallet.

There seems to be a rise in the number of vegetarian restaurants in Paris. Do you have any favourites?

Yes, that’s something I talk about in my book! I really enjoy IMA, a Mediterranean canteen along the Canal Saint-Martin that is a bit like Ottolenghi in London. 

Which are your favourite restaurants in Paris and can you describe the best meal you’ve had in the city?

I am a forever fan of Le 52 Faubourg Saint-Denis, Tannat, Café Méricourt, and GrandCoeur. My top meal changes often but one of the most memorable meals I’ve had was at the Mediterranean restaurant Balagan – it was flavourful and different and full of spirit, on and off the plate. 

Where are your favourite places to shop in Paris?

I try to go to independent shops where the goods are unique and not readily available outside of the city, such as Jamini, Atelier Couronnes, Papier Tigre, Kitsuné, and Sézane. 

Which month would you recommend for visiting Paris and do you have a favourite time of year in the city?

Ignore the song – springtime in Paris isn’t the most reliable time to visit. The weather changes radically between March and May and that doesn’t always mean sunshine. For more stable temperatures, I recommend September/October. Despite the emptiness of the city, I love August. 

What’s next for Lost In Cheeseland?

I continue to contribute to The New York Times, Condé Nast Traveler, Afar magazine and Fortune magazine, and have a number of France-related stories in the works. I also have a podcast called The New Paris podcast that continues the discussion that my book began!