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Exclusive interview: Tobiaz Lanz, Bucherer’s chief diamond buyer


With well over a century of experience in the industry, Bucherer is one of the world’s leading diamond experts. Global Blue talks to its chief diamond buyer about the brand’s striking collections

Hannah Lewis / © Katie Wilson-Ells
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Hannah Lewis,

Founded in 1888, Bucherer has grown from a small family-owned business into one of the world’s leading fine watch and jewellery specialists. Now in the hands of the third generation, with Jörg G Bucherer at the helm, the brand has embraced numerous styles and developments over the years. But one passion has remained steadfast throughout: diamonds. For generations, Bucherer has cultivated its expertise in the market, from selecting the most fabulous stones to enlisting the most skilled craftsmen to transform these precious gems into beautiful jewellery. Today, the brand is one of the world’s foremost experts in the field of diamond jewellery.

Star of the gemstones
‘The diamond is the undisputed star of the gemstones … its magic sparkle gives expression to emotion in its purest form,’ says chief diamond buyer Tobias Lanz, who began at Bucherer 20 years ago as a goldsmith and has gradually specialised. ‘I was always fascinated by diamonds and gemstones,’ he says. The diamonds team may be vast – including buyers to gemologists, goldsmiths to polishers – but each and every single member shares the same enthusiasm for and commitment to diamonds and to excellence. This is reflected in Bucherer’s Diamonds Collection, which the brand describes as ‘an expression of pure passion’.

The Diamonds Collection comprises a wide range of exquisite pieces. From simple everyday creations – a dainty bracelet or a pair of stud earrings – to standout, unashamedly glamorous occasionwear, Bucherer’s team takes its passion for these stones and translates it into items for every possible occasion and client. Often inspired by natural forms, the brand’s trademark style is elegant, feminine and refined, embracing the enduring classicism of diamonds and the precious metals that complement them, while remaining thoroughly modern.

Only the best
At the heart of this process is the indisputable quality of the stones. Luckily Bucherer is one of the world’s most prominent experts in selecting diamonds, with Lanz well placed to oversee the matter. ‘Bucherer offers one of the largest selections of diamond jewellery in Europe,’ he explains. ‘Because of its solid expertise, long-standing connections and well-developed critical faculty, the company is able to buy very rare gemstones and to offer its clientele top-quality diamonds at fair prices.’

‘We are looking for top-quality diamonds,’ he continues. ‘[These are] defined by the four Cs: cut, colour, clarity and carat.’ The most important of these will differ depending on the client, he explains, but for Bucherer the cut will always come first, as it’s ‘the only dimension made by human beings’. Though the demand for diamonds is ‘continuously increasing’, says Lanz, the company will never compromise in its quest for perfection.

Playing with colour
Bucherer’s expertise and its established position in the market mean that the brand has access to some of the rarest stones, including fancy colour diamonds. While in white diamonds it’s the absence of colour that determines value, with fancy colour diamonds – those that fall outside the usual colour range – it’s the saturation of their colour that counts. According to some estimates, only one carat of fancy colour diamonds is mined for every 10,000 carats of white diamonds, making these stones some of the most coveted and expensive in the world.

Exceptional pieces
Each year, Bucherer presents a limited collection of pieces featuring these rare coloured gems. Created in the brand’s workshops on the shores of Lake Lucerne, this year’s exceptional pieces are two high-jewellery necklaces featuring fancy yellow pear-cut diamonds. Inspired by traditional St Gallen embroidery, from the Swiss town of the same name, the pieces balance a bold opulence with the sense of fragility evoked by lace. The first necklace embraces tassels; featuring 10 fancy yellow pear-cut diamonds weighing 21.7 carats, it took around 150 hours to create.

The second, which took around 200 hours for Bucherer’s skilled craftsmen to complete, features 12 fancy yellow pear-cut diamonds – weighing 12.1 carats – and is finished with an outstanding 7.02 carat fancy light yellow pear-cut diamond. Worth in the range of half a million euros each, these two pieces are completely unique, and available on request to only the most discerning of clients. So rare are the gems that one of the most difficult elements of the creation process was sourcing so many diamonds of such quality in matching colours. Only a brand with a standing such as Bucherer’s could have hoped to obtain such rarities.

No compromise
Whether you’re looking for an exceptional creation, the perfect piece for a special occasion or recipient, or simply a beautiful addition to your everyday wardrobe, you can’t go wrong with the Bucherer Diamonds Collection. As Lanz says, ‘We only accept the highest standard and do not make any compromises.’

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