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Table talk

As the regeneration of Scandinavian food captures the attention of diners and critics worldwide, Verity Hogan visits the restaurants in Copenhagen breaking new boundaries in conceptual cooking

City Guide
Verity Hogan,

Kong Hans Kælder
The 700-year-old building in which Kong Hans Kælder is housed has an ecclesiastical feel thanks to its high gothic arches, vaulted ceilings and flickering candles. The restaurant, which opened in 1976, is traditional and unpretentious; the menu follows the contours of French gastronomy, but with the added attraction of international touches such as sweet-and-sour shiitake mushrooms. End with the lemon thyme and verbena wontons, served with lemon custard.

Kong Hans Kælder, Vingaardsstræde 6, 1070 Copenhagen, +45 3311 6868

Restaurant Kiin Kiin
With its low-level seating, bamboo plants and golden Buddha statues, Restaurant Kiin Kiin brings a note of the Orient to Copenhagen. There are two menus to choose from: the four-course theatre meal or the tasting menu, featuring lemongrass consommé, ginger dumplings and prawn tapioca. Each dish is matched to an aromatic white wine from the Alsace region, and the restaurant’s most romantic table, number nine, can be booked in advance for a special anniversary.

Restaurant Kiin Kiin, Guldbergsgade 21, 2200 Copenhagen, +45 3535 7555

Restaurant Herman
Chef Thomas Herman was raised in southern Jutland and his lifelong love affair with classic Danish cuisine shines through his menu, which refines and reinterprets the traditional with satisfying deftness. In Herman’s hands, simple liver pâté transmutes into seared foie gras with pickled cherries, while the shellfish comes in a bisque of dried chamomile, mussels and chamomile caviar. Best is the cheese board, produced at the on-site dairy, Løgismose.

Restaurant Herman, Nimb, Bernstroffsgade 5, 1577 Copenhagen, +45 8870 0020

Krogs Fiskerestaurant
Christian Krog, nicknamed ‘Oyster’ after his trademark dish, founded his fish restaurant in 1910. Today, the menu still features many of his signature plates, alongside contemporary offerings sourced from organic, sustainable stocks. The restaurant’s interior, carefully restored by the National Museum, creates the perfect backdrop to the classic Krogs Grand menu, which works through trout, cod, mackerel, Dover sole and more.

Krogs Fiskerestaurant, Gammel Strand 38, 1202 Copenhagen, +45 3315 8915

Era Ora
Era Ora's concept is one of unrushed cooking, a return to considered and thoughtful preparation championed by Tuscan-born partners Edelvita Santos and Elvio Milleri. Though the restaurant’s roots are in Umbria and Tuscany, a lot of effort has gone into making the food as forward-thinking as possible. Note the veal tail, which comes in the shape of a lollipop, with apricot salad and a sauce of wine and liquorice.

Era Ora, Overgaden Neden Vandet 33B, 1414 Copenhagen, +45 3254 0693


Alberto K at the Royal
City Guide

Table talk


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