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Table talk


The epicentre of fine Scandinavian dining, Copenhagen has more Michelin stars than any other city in Scandinavia and now boasts the world’s best restaurant. Check out Andrew Stone’s guide to the city’s gastronomic offerings

Andrew Stone,

Alberto K at the Royal
High up in the city’s flagship Radisson Blu Royal Hotel you’ll find possibly the best modern Italian food in town. Alberto K, which overlooks the city’s twinkling lights, offers a wonderful sense of occasion. After ordering dishes such as scallop with wild mushroom and fennel, mull over the extensive and well-regarded wine list.

Alberto K at the Royal, Hammerischgade 1, 20th floor, 1602 Copenhagen, +45 3342 6161

Open
Classic French techniques and set-price, multi-course menus are the winning combination at Open. The Swedish chefs offer four courses for 400DKK or five for 550DKK, although you’ll pay almost double if you match that with wine. Expect traditional but proven combinations such as salt cod with clams; mallard with pear, thyme and juniper; or braised ox cheek with marrow pieces.

Open, Tordenskjoldsgade 11, 1055 Copenhagen, +45 3311 3352

Geranium
Award-winning chef Rasmus Kofoed’s Geranium is making a name in the city and beyond. In a wonderful new location overlooking the city’s tree and roof tops, Geranium serves only organic, biodynamic food and wine in one of Copenhagen’s most striking dining rooms. The focus is on clarity of flavour, teased out of the best ingredients. The tomato consommé with ham terrine, sorrel and wild flowers is a high point.

Geranium, Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8thfloor, 2100 Copenhagen, +45 6996 0020

Noma
Denmark’s new generation of chefs is turning the new Nordic cuisine into a global phenomenon. Its uncontested leader is chef René Redzepi, whose restaurant Noma serves some of the most exciting food in Denmark. The emphasis is on local sourcing, foraged wild ingredients and traditional techniques such as pickling or using ash coatings as flavouring. It’s experimental without being silly, obsessive without being precious and spectacularly successful. Not surprisingly, it also gets booked up three months ahead.

Noma, Strandgade 93, 1401 Copenhagen, +45 3296 3297

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